What feeders to put on the feeder. The most catchy carp rigs (John Neebon)

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This lively fish has been in the cage of almost every angler. And it is not surprising, because due to its unpretentiousness, crucian carp is very common, and it can be found in almost every body of water. He leads a bottom way of life and that is why, feeder equipment for crucian carp is the best way to get this handsome man into your cage.

carp killer

It is in the first place, because many novice anglers use this equipment to catch their first trophies. It is far from familiar to us and is not used in a sports feeder. At first glance, even very rude, but its effectiveness suggests otherwise.

Springs are taken with hollow tubes inside or without them, but with fasteners in front and behind. In order to carry out the installation of feeder equipment for crucian carp, we take 1 meter of monofilament fishing line with a thickness of 0.3-0.4 mm or braided, slightly smaller diameter. At one end of the fishing line, we attach a clasp with a swivel, a weight of 30-40 grams will be attached to them, the main thing is that the total weight of all your equipment, together with bait, be 10-15 grams less than the top test of the feeder rod. Then, at a distance of 15 cm from the load, a triple knot is made, then a bead or any other stopper is threaded and brought to the knot. After that, a spring is threaded, followed by a bead again, brought to the feeder. A triple knot is mounted behind it, so that it fits as close as possible to the bead. We retreat 10 centimeters from the knot and again knit a triple knot, and put on a bead, bring it to the knot. Behind her we put on another feeder, after a bead and make a triple knot. Again, at a distance of 10 cm, we make a knot, thread the bead, bring it as close as possible to our knot, then thread the feeder, then thread the bead and bring it as close as possible to the feeder, then make a triple knot. Now, at a distance of 10 cm from the last feeder, we knit a swivel that will connect our crucian killer feeder equipment with the main fishing line. Now it remains to attach habits with hooks. They are attached with the help of the "noose" knot on the spring frame or between the knot and the bead.

In order for the crucian killer tackle not to get confused, two points must be taken into account.

Our main load should be heavier than the total weight of the three springs with feed. Based on this, use springs without a weight inside.
The length of the leashes should be such that the hooks do not reach each other.

Feeder equipment for crucian carp with a flat-method feeder

If you are fishing in stagnant water with muddy bottoms, this is exactly the case when the rest of the rigs will be in a less advantageous position.

You can choose from two mounting methods:

Inline Method

For its installation, we need a piece of fishing line 50-60 cm long, 0.25-0.4 mm in diameter. At one end we attach a swivel or make a double loop. Through the opposite end of the fishing line we pass a bead or a stopper and bring it to our loop, then we skip the feeder, and then the stopper again, retreat 35-40 cm and again knit a loop or fasten the swivel. For one edge, we attach a hook on a habit 10-15 cm long, for the second main fishing line.

Blind mounting

Suitable for multi-rod fishing as it is a self-hooking rig. So we take a piece of fishing line 50 cm long. We fasten a swivel on one edge, then we skip the feeder, bring it to the swivel, and drive it into its inner tube so that it is rigidly fixed in it. Here, initially you need to choose a swivel for the inner diameter of the feeder tube. And then we retreat 30-35 cm and make a loop to connect with the main fishing line or attach a carabiner. If the feeder has a ring for attaching the habit and the main line, then installation is even easier.

Asymmetrical and symmetrical loop

It has high sensitivity and at the same time the probability that the feeder equipment for crucian carp will get confused is minimal, it is excellent for fishing both in open areas and in vegetation conditions, in current and still water. The rig is self-cutting. If the bottom is quite cluttered or you need to make casts over 50 m, it is better to use a paternoster.

In order to carry out the installation of this equipment, we need a monofilament with a thickness of 0.2-0.4 mm. We take a segment 1 m long and fold it in half so that one edge protrudes 10-15 cm. Then, holding the fishing line between our fingers, we twist it in one direction (Fig. 1.2),

the length of the twist is 5-10 cm. In order to fix the twist, we make a knot. Then we retreat 25-30 cm, but so that the excess line (10-15 cm) remains with us in the form of a protruding loop. Here we pass a swivel with a carabiner, to which the feeder will be attached. We make a knot and mount a twist of 10-15 cm from the remaining fishing line, fasten a swivel on the edge. Over the edge with a swivel, we fasten habits. For the opposite, main line. The length of the habit is 30-100 cm, depending on the activity of biting. If the bite is active, then it can be short, if the fish is cautious, you need to try to increase the length of the habit.

You can also use a symmetrical loop, its installation is similar, only the fishing line folds in half evenly.

The disadvantage of a symmetrical loop is less sensitivity and a greater likelihood of equipment overlap.

Paternoster

One of the most popular rigs due to its ease of installation and efficiency in both muddy and hard ground. Works well with various bottom drops. Minimal chance of the feeder overlapping with the leash on long casts.

In order to carry out the installation, we take a piece of a monk with a length of 65-100 cm, a diameter of 0.15-0.35 mm.

First, we need to make a tap under the feeder, 10 cm long. To do this, we fold part of the fishing line in half, so that at the exit we get a loop 10 cm long, and fix it with a figure eight, a feeder is attached to this loop through a carabiner clasp. After the longer edge of the fishing line we start behind the feeder so that it is 4-5 cm away from it and we knit a small (2-3 cm wide) surgical loop. We will mount habits to it. Its length is 30-100 cm depending on the bite. We attach a swivel to the remaining free edge of the fishing line (35-40 cm), it will be connected to the main fishing line.

We collect feeder gear for crucian carp

rod

If you are fishing in a stagnant pond or bay, close to the shore (near the edge of aquatic vegetation). The ideal option would be picker carbon rod. Light and small form 2.1-3 m long, allowing the use of small feeders, the total weight of which with bait is not more than 40 g. The advantage of such equipment is that the feeder creates a minimum of noise when it falls, and all other gear is as delicate as possible. This will allow, during the fight, to feel the slightest jerks of the fish and fully enjoy the fight. Many anglers use an ordinary weight instead of a feeder, and feed them by throwing balls, as in float fishing. It is actively used in the summer, in the spring it is used as an auxiliary rod.

On rivers and reservoirs, composite or carbon rods of the class Medium with dough up to 90 grams, fast building. On small rivers, a blank length of 3-3.6 m is sufficient, for wide rivers and reservoirs, 3.6-3.9 m is better, because in early spring and late autumn, crucian carp will be at a considerable distance from the coast. More powerful blanks, it makes no sense to use, since crucian carp do not like strong currents.

A medium class rod will be universal and will allow you to use feeder equipment for crucian carp, both with light feeders weighing 30 grams, and heavier 50 grams. Do not forget about feeder tips, on picker and medium class rods, soft tips are placed, they are very sensitive and will allow you to determine the bite at the tip of the rod. In addition, soft tips will not pull the bait at the bottom when manipulating the blank. When fishing in the current, it is advisable to take a tip of medium hardness with you.

Coil

Inertia-free, with a gear ratio of about 5:2.1, we don't need more powerful ones. The spool is low profile, its size should be sufficient so that you can wind 100 m of 0.2 mm thick line. For a picker, you can do less, you still won’t throw far. Friction is needed, because you may come across a large carp or bream. Front or rear, it's up to you, whichever is more convenient. If you are going to use braided line, then the reel should be coated so that the line does not rub against the soft plastic. Bearings 3 plus one in the line roller, more if it's not China. Do not forget about the quality of laying the fishing line, it should be wound evenly without overlaps.

fishing line

When fishing at a distance of up to 25 m, when in the long term the capture of handsome men of 0.5-1 kg, it is better to use a monk. Due to the stretch, it will allow you to compensate for the jerks of the fish when playing. When fishing at a distance of more than 30 m, catching medium-sized carp or fishing in early spring and autumn, it is worth giving preference to feeder equipment for catching carp using a braided line, since it is more sensitive.

The thickness of the monofilament depends on the size of the trophy 0.18-0.25 mm, braids 0.15-0.16 mm, the main thing is that it can withstand a breaking load of 2.5-3 kg. The color of the fishing line should match the color of the pond.

Habits are used thinner than the main fishing line by 0.02-0.03 mm and having a lower breaking load. In clear water, fluorocarbon is an excellent choice, in which case it is almost invisible to fish. In thickness, it will be 1.5-2 times thicker than a monofilament leash. Braids are not used as leashes

Hooks

According to international classification No. 14-10, sharp, with a short forearm and a wide underwear.

feeders

Feeder equipment for crucian carp No. 1 is a tackle with a flat-method type feeder. This is due to the fact that crucian prefers muddy soil, and it has a wide base and does not get stuck in it like other feeders. Also for these purposes, you can use plastic mesh feeders with wings.

In currents and deep waters, metal mesh feeders (rectangular and cylindrical with a flat base) are a good choice. In autumn and spring, when we need to make the longest casts, it is worth choosing rocket feeders; their aerodynamic characteristics allow us to make the longest possible casts.

Spring feeders are quite popular for catching carp.

Finding a place to fish

But before you start collecting our feeder gear for crucian carp, you need to know where to look for it.

spring carp

The activity of the crucian begins to manifest itself when the water is heated to 5-7 degrees, at this time it moves around the reservoir in search of food, it is worth remembering that the crucian does not like the current very much, especially its dislike is manifested in early spring and late autumn. Now, if the day is sunny, it can be found near the coast, at a depth of 1.5 m, since at such a depth the water warms up faster. Promising places will be underwater hills abundantly overgrown with grass, snags, dense thickets of reeds, meadows flooded during floods. On cold cloudy days, or in cases of danger, the fish goes to the depths. In early spring, initially it is worth using two rods, we throw one in shallow water, the second at a considerable distance from the coast and look where crucian carp are most active, and catch there.

With gradual warming and the approach of the spawning season, the fish go to quiet bays, abundantly covered with reeds. Spawning in the southern latitudes - the beginning of May, in the middle latitudes - the middle, end of May, lasts 3-4 weeks.

Catching carp on the feeder in the summer

In summer, the best time for fishing for crucian carp starts at dawn and ends at 9-10 am, in the evening it can actively start catching 2 or 3 hours before sunset. Night fishing for crucian carp is also quite effective. But in the afternoon, when the summer heat sets in, the feeder equipment for crucian carp can lie in vain. Often on shallow stagnant reservoirs during especially hot days, crucian carp may not be caught at all during the whole day. The crucian is most active, in the first month of summer, now at the beginning of fishing, use several rods, throwing them at different distances:

near the shore on the border of aquatic vegetation.

at a distance of 25-35 m, especially if there are islands of aquatic vegetation (throw at a distance of 1-2 meters from them).

Then, finding a glue spot, focus on this area. The crucian likes a soft muddy bottom covered with grass, algae (only not hornwort), reeds or reeds, but you can also find crucian carp on a bottom covered with shells. Especially crucian loves places on the border of aquatic vegetation and clean water, so catching it is successful in the windows of algae, the main thing is that their density is not too high, and you can pull out the feeder without breaking the feeder equipment for catching crucian. In summer, crucian pecks well in cloudy and windy weather. On rivers and reservoirs, it must be looked for on the lower edge, especially if there is a flat bottom further, large individuals can be found in pits, and it can also be found in quiet backwaters, oxbow lakes and bays overgrown with reeds and algae.

Autumn

In September, there is a decline in the summer heat, and the activity of crucian carp increases significantly, this period lasts until the end of the Indian summer. At this time, crucian carp can be active throughout the daylight hours, besides, its bite is activated in shallow water bodies, where during the August sun, it ignored our baits. With the onset of autumn cold weather and a gradual decrease in temperature, its activity also decreases, now the most favorable time for fishing will be when the weather is warm and sunny for several days. In October, crucian carp should be looked for near pits and riverbeds at a depth of 3-5 m, while fishing in ponds and bays should be left and guided by rivers and reservoirs. In November, on the eve of winter cold, crucian carp stay in wintering pits and bite very rarely. Now, before preparing feeder gear for crucian carp, you need to ask avid fishermen on which reservoirs in the area it is still active.

nozzles

Whatever feeder equipment you use for catching crucian carp, you cannot do without the right nozzle. Crucian carp is very capricious and is often caught on a maggot in one pond, and if you give it a worm, it will not pay attention to it, and vice versa, it will be caught on a worm, and not pay attention to the maggot. On an unknown body of water, before you start fishing, ask the guards what kind of bait the crucian is caught on here.

Experienced anglers always take several types of baits of animal and vegetable origin with them for crucian fishing. In preference, worm, maggot, bloodworm, from vegetable: corn, wheat, barley and garlic-flavored bread. In early spring and autumn, in cold water (temperature below + 10-15 ˚С), crucian prefer baits of animal origin. In summer, it is well caught on both vegetable and animal baits, often a sandwich is used to activate the bite, several different baits on one hook, for example: semolina and bloodworm, maggot and corn, worm and bread. And remember, if crucian does not peck at the nozzle you have chosen for a long time, you need to change it to another.

Lure

There are two types of crucian baits:

As the basis of bait - dry mixes (breadcrumbs, cake).
As a base - steamed millet porridge.

The basis is 50-60 percent of the entire component of our bait. There should be a lot of it, but at the same time, the nutritional value should be minimal so that the fish eat it and not eat up. You can make your own breadcrumbs or buy them, and you can also use ground roasted seeds instead of cake. It is useful to add finely ground biscuit, shortbread cookies to the base.

Do not forget about various nutritional supplements, crucian loves fishmeal, corn, barley, peas. Also crucian attracts milk powder. Semolina and oatmeal (Hercules), in addition to nutrition, also bind bait, so if you are not fishing in the current, add rippers. Bran, soda, coconut flakes, various geyser additives are suitable as rippers. For a better bite, it is worth adding maggot, bloodworm, chopped worm to the bait.

It is important to consider that baits for warm and cold water (10 ˚С and less) are different. So in the summer, unless you are fishing in a shallow pond, it will be difficult to overfeed the crucian carp, and there should be a lot of bait. In cold water, its amount is significantly reduced, and instead of vegetable nutritional supplements, only animals (maggot, bloodworm, worm) are used. It is also useful to mix the bait with the soil in a ratio of 1:2 and even 1:3.

Before catching on an unknown reservoir, you should ask the watchmen which crucian prefer here or use store-bought bait, they give a good result TRAPER, dunaev And sensas.

Flavors

As flavors, we can use: garlic, dill, anise, mint, chocolate, various sweet aromas (peach, banana, honey). Not bad crucian responds to flavors prepared on the basis of aquatic vegetation: reed, egg capsule, calamus, cattail. What flavors you will use when collecting feeder equipment for crucian carp depends on the season. Sweet flavors are preferred in summer, but garlic is one of the carp's favorite scents. Also in the summer you need to constantly experiment. In spring and autumn, it is better not to use fragrances, and if you do decide to use them, then opt for spicy fragrances.

Feeding on porridge

The millet used is bright yellow, without the smell of prettiness. Before you cook it, millet must be washed with water and cleaned of excess components.

For feeder fishing, we need 1 kg of millet. Fill the pan with water, so that it was more than a finger. After boiling, let it simmer for 5 minutes over low heat. After removing from the stove, wrap in a blanket and leave overnight. At the same time, we grind half a kilogram of shortbread cookies and 250 grams of finely ground seeds.

For fishing, we take separately a bag of porridge and a bag of seeds and cookies. On the spot, mix and fill the feeder. You can add a little honey or vanilla to this bait.

Homemade bait based on dry mixes:

Recipe 1

Breadcrumbs - 1000 grams;
Makukha - 400 grams;
Bran (compound feed) - 400 grams;
Oatmeal (Hercules) - 200 grams;
Semolina - 200 grams;
Corn grits - 200 grams;

For better results, you can add 300 grams of purchased crucian bait.

Recipe 2

Breadcrumbs - 500 grams;

Bored with a fishing rod on the lake? Doesn't peck? Fixable!
Today we will make tackle with our own hands that will not let you get bored on the pond.
A tool that you can take with you anywhere. For fishing, hiking and even to the Bolshoi Theater.
If you are not a fisherman at all and went on a weekend hike with your other half, you can always surprise and please her with a delicious fish soup from spontaneously caught fish in the very first forest pond. Unless, of course, your other half gets to read this publication first.

So! What do we need?

A piece of wire 20-30 cm. In my case, it is copper. In yours - any kind of soft wire.

Pliers. Everyone has them. If they are not there, we take it from a neighbor.

Ball pen. In my case. In yours - door, women's, etc.

Carnation.

A piece of line.

Two hooks.

Two foam balls.

That's all we need. Now calculate the costs, taking into account the fact that a ballpoint pen, carnations and pliers will not suffer in the manufacture of gear.

There are dozens of names for this tackle, but in order not to be confused, let's call it not lost .

1.

We pick up a piece of wire with a diameter of 1 mm and hand it over to the non-ferrous metal collection point, and with the proceeds ...

No, wait! It's a slightly different story.
Using pliers, twist a small eyelet at the end of the wire, wrapping it around the carnation. We bite off the extra piece of wire and bend it so that the sharp tip does not stick out.

2.

We retreat from our loop about 30 mm per eye and twist another eyelet at the other end of the wire.

This time we don’t cut anything, but we perform the process of disassembling a ballpoint pen in order to separate the rod from its body.
Then we insert the free end of the wire into the body of the ballpoint pen and begin to twist the turns.

When the required number of turns is ready, remove the wire from the body of the ballpoint pen and set it aside.

We wrap the free end of the wire around the already twisted ear and bite off the excess.
Did you make it look ugly? Dont be upset! Beauty is not needed here and it will not affect the catchability in any way. Moreover, the fish will not see it.
Now you can see with your own eyes the size of our gear. It even fits in a matchbox.

3.

Next, we need two small fishing hooks and a piece of fishing line. In my case, it is a thin braid.

We tie the hooks to the fishing line. Fishing line - to our wire ears. Take your time and tie the knots qualitatively. Be sure to wet each knot with water or saliva before tightening.
This is done so that the turns, when tightened, do not heat up and do not fray the fishing line.

4.

Now we have two 4 cm long leashes tied on both sides of our tackle. We tie our main fishing line to any of the ears.

During fishing, we put a foam ball on each hook.

5.

Our equipment is complete.

Now let's submerge it in a container of water to make sure that our hooks float thanks to the foam balls.

How it works?

1. The tackle is stuffed with porridge or bread, crushed tightly and thrown into the pond. Hooks do not need to be inserted into the porridge.

2. The fish flocks to the bait and sees two delicious (checked!) Styrofoam balls. And before embarking on a side dish, he hurries to feast on our balls. This is where it gets hooked.

Advantages.

1. High efficiency of fishing. (Tested in practice!).

2. Gathers on the knee in 10 minutes.

3. Does not require financial investments. Two hooks and fishing line - all waste.

4. Lightweight and compact. Will not become a burden on any of the trips.

Do you want to catch the same?
Then to the neighbor for pliers!

In today's article, we will consider what kind of feeder feeders are, what material they are made of, their shapes, conditions of use. The main purpose of the feeder is to deliver food to the point of fishing. There are a variety of feeders, and depending on the reservoir and conditions, we will use one or another feeder for fishing. Also, do not forget that in addition to the delivery of bait, the feeder plays the role of a load and it is important that its total weight with bait be 20 percent less than the upper limit .

Depending on the type of bait used, all feeders can be divided into three types:

Mesh feeders (cage) - designed for the use of loose bait.
Open-type feeders (method and flat feeders) - a viscous bait is used, which should not fall apart when it hits the water.
Feeders designed to deliver live food (cork feeders).

Depending on the material, they are metal and plastic.

Feeders made of metal mesh

According to their form, they can be divided into:

The advantage of these fishing feeders is that the metal mesh cuts the water perfectly, they resist the current better than plastic ones and reach the bottom faster. A big plus when you don't want to attract small things from the water column.

When wondering which feeders for a feeder you should have in your arsenal, I would like to note the feeders of the company brain. These feeders have a flat bottom, on which the load is concentrated, while its main mass is brought to the side opposite from the loop. As a result, when entering the water, the feeder does not create cotton, which is a definite plus when fishing in shallow waters.

The disadvantage of metal feeders is that they do not float well, this disadvantage is fully felt when fishing on deep edges and in places densely overgrown with algae.

When choosing a feeder in the store, you need to pay attention to the junctions of the gratings so that there are no notches and sharp edges.

Also, mesh feeders can have a plug, you will need it when fishing in a strong current, and also when you use live food along with bait.

The British, who are ahead of the rest in terms of feeder gear, have developed a special feeder gear Shotgun, its essence lies in the fact that when this feeder touches the bottom, a special piston pushes the bait out of it. Such a fishing feeder is not cheap, and has not yet reached us. But I hope, soon, will appear on our shelves.

Plastic feeders for fishing

As a rule, they are cylindrical with wings and without.

Better than metal ones they are suitable for fishing in stagnant waters, and their advantages include the fact that you can put more food in them than in metal ones, with the same weight. This is a direct plus when, in order to maintain a normal bite, the fish must be intensively fed. They float well, especially if the feeders have wings, and are especially effective in places with a cluttered bottom. Feeder feeders with wings work well on muddy ground, as the wings create an additional plane and prevent it from getting stuck in it.

The disadvantage of plastic feeder feeders is that they have a high water resistance, which is why they are not recommended for use in the course, especially feeders with wings, because they sink to the bottom even more slowly, often anglers cut them off.

When choosing plastic feeders, you should pay attention to the load at the base, if it is rectangular and strongly convex, it will create additional wind resistance when casting, which will reduce the casting distance. Here, for example, at the feeders Feeder Sport the load is quite flat with rounded edges, allowing you to throw tackle over longer distances.

Grouser feeders

Designed for fishing in intense currents, they are made of metal mesh, they are rectangular and cylindrical in shape on a flat base.
These feeders for the feeder are better kept on the bottom due to the presence of spikes on the load. In order to reduce wind resistance during flight, it is desirable to use an arched weight.

Feeder feeders for long-distance casting bullets

Very often in the canopy we have to fish at the maximum distance from the shore. In this case, we use bullet feeders. They are cylindrical or conical in shape. They can be either metal or plastic.

Shipment is of two types: the first - the weight is located at a distance from the front edge of the feeder, the second - the load is soldered into the feeder mesh itself.

These feeder feeders for fishing have minimal wind resistance, and the location of the main weight on the bow improves the aerodynamic characteristics of the feeder, so that it can be thrown at a distance of about 80-100 m even in the presence of wind. Also, these feeders enter the water, practically without making too much noise, and due to the fact that the load is not dissected along the plane, they float well.

Feeders

As a rule, before the start of fishing, a starting feed is made, for these purposes it is better to use feeders. Feeding troughs can be either plastic or metal (feed comes out faster from metal).
They are larger than conventional feeders in order to supply as much feed as possible in fewer casts, for the same reasons feeder feeders do not have a load or it is very small.

Feeder feeders for open type fishing

These feeders are designed for fishing in stagnant waters and weak currents.

Flat method feeders

The bait is hammered into this feeder with the help of pressing and is kept due to the presence of plastic arcs. The basis of this feeder is a flat load. Pressing of bait is carried out with the help of hands or a special mold (mould). Moreover, feeders can be of various shapes and sizes, so the bee should be selected directly under the feeder. As a rule, using mold, the baited hook is pressed into the bait itself. The flat method is a more modern version of the pacifier. Thanks to its flat and wide base, it works well in muddy waters, and it can also be caught in a weak current. When using method feeders, it is important to consider that the weight of the bait used will equal or even exceed the weight of your feeder.

When choosing a flat method feeder for a feeder, you need to pay attention to the ribs, they can be located on the sides of the coil or be spaced apart, the size of the nozzle that you can use depends on the distance between the ribs of the feeder, so if the distance between the ribs is small you will not be able to insert a hook with a 20 mm bait, and at the same time, if you use feeders sharpened for wide baits and decide to use a small bait, then after casting and the feeder gets into the water, part of the bait will fall out and your bait will most likely fall out.

Drop-shaped feeders have the best flight characteristics due to the center of gravity shifted to the edge, although there are also classic flats with additional cargo. The downside of these feeders is that when they fall into the water, they are stronger than a simple classic flat, they go into it with their noses.

For fishing in shallow but heavily silted reservoirs, you need to choose flats that have a wide base and light weight.

Casting distance:

Feeders weighing up to 25-30 grams are used at picker distances;

Feeders weighing 40-80 grams - fishing at a distance of 40 to 80 meters;

Feeders weighing 100-120 grams for punching strong winds and fishing at maximum distances of 100 meters or more.

Inside the flat method feeders there is an axial hole for the slider.

In carp fishing, we need a lot of food, so special frame feeders, which are a base with longitudinal ribs, can also be used here.

As bait for method feeders, various cereals, plasticines with flavors are used (meaning the degree of viscosity of the bait), you can also buy specialized bait in the store.

Spring feeders

They were actively used by our anglers even before we had feeder equipment. This feeder consists of: a spring or a spiral, a plastic tube and a weight, which can be located both on the plastic tube and on the axles.
The tube is hollow inside, or a cord can be passed through it. It is these feeders connected in series in the amount of three pieces that are the classic “crucian killer” tackle. The name speaks for itself.

Feeders for animal feed

Often in the process of fishing, we need to supplement the place of catching with animal food (both pure and as part of bait), cork feeders are used for these purposes. They are made of plastic. There are small holes on the surface of the feeder through which the feed is washed out.

Cork feeders for fishing are

Closed
semi-closed
open

And now let's figure out which feeders for the feeder, when they are used. Closed, equipped with two plugs, semi-closed have one blind or removable plug. They are used for fishing in medium and strong currents. Open feeders do not have end caps and are designed for feeding in stagnant water bodies and in weak currents.

Which feeders for the feeder should be depending on the weight

The first rule for choosing a feeder by weight is “you should use the lightest feeders that are suitable for the given fishing conditions and the equipment you have”. The most common feeders for stagnant ponds are 20-30 g, here the weight of the feeder will depend only on the casting distance. For a weak current, feeders weighing up to 40 g are used, on rivers with an average current up to 60 g, with a strong one from 60 g and above. The weight of the feeder feeder for fishing also depends on the depth of fishing and the strength of the wind, since a feeder that is too light will sink for a long time and be blown away by the wind in flight. Also, the line will sail in the wind, dragging a light feeder along the bottom.

When you use a quiver tip for bite signaling, your feeder should not slide along the bottom, straightening its sensitive tip. If you cast the tackle and the feeder does not clearly lie on the bottom, then put a heavier one, it is advisable to have an arsenal of feeders with a difference in weight of 5 grams, this will give you the opportunity to choose the feeder with the highest quality for fishing conditions.

Video what feeders for feeder are used by anglers

I hope after today's review you have no questions left about what feeders for the feeder exist and how to use them depending on the reservoir.

As a rule, when it comes to the presentation of baits, and more precisely, about the leashes that we make for bottom carp fishing, many anglers (regardless of their professional level) have the same problem “on the tongue”. That is, at some “wonderful” moment, we suddenly (for ourselves) understand that, after all, we do not get a 100% result from knitting our carp rigs.

And then we justify our failures - either by an illiterate / chosen place for fishing, or by “not catchy” weather, or by fishing pressure, or by other “excuses”. In general, by hook or by crook, we try to deny our helplessness in creating such a rig that is guaranteed to catch carp! And all this is happening against the backdrop of what already exists in the world - just a huge range of products for carp fishing and the widest selection of all kinds of "chips" and "novelties" for fishing.

Naturally, having carefully read many books and articles (from eminent carp anglers), in search of the best equipment for carp fishing, we find “something”! After that, we assure ourselves that this particular equipment is the best (for our situation on the lake). But then - with our own brains we completely refute this information, after the very first carp session!

So, starting from scratch or returning to the simplest rigs is the best way to competently master the intricacies of creating leads (for carp fishing). Only by properly studying and successfully putting into practice the simplest leashes a hundred times, you will be able to understand for what situations on the pond you need to tie more complex carp rigs (or use more complex leashes), and how to do it right! In this case, it is not necessary - even to try to jump "above the navel."

Personally, I think that modern carp anglers are overly spoiled with too wide a range of carp rigs. And even more precisely - a huge selection of all kinds of "small things" presented on the windows of fishing shops. For example, today you can easily find hooks - in fact, of any size and shape, or you can purchase leader materials of any structure and degree of rigidity. Moreover, there are many swivels on the shelves - with enlarged rings, models for quick replacement of the leash, etc. In general, today we can purchase - almost everything that is needed to create carp equipment for any situation on the reservoir!

However, with such a wide choice - it is very easy to make a mistake, for example, using at the same time - completely incompatible things. As a rule, after we cannot resist the temptation to "shove" somewhere a new product, bought recently, after its chic advertising in many magazines. I am completely sure that if all beginner carp anglers during the first 2 months of fishing did not “get smart”, but bought a couple of hooks (of the same variety), and also acquired only one type of leader material, they would have caught a lot more carps. And also normally (and much faster) mastered all the basics of carp fishing!

The most simple without/knotted "design" of hair mounting contains almost all the mechanical principles of operation and "spotting ability" of rigs that every carp angler needs to know!

hair rigging

What is the most important meaning of a hair rig? It is in attaching the nozzle to the hook in such a “cunning” way that the sting of the latter does not close, and the bait itself has the opportunity to move naturally and freely. When carps suck up our baits, by the way, in the same way as any other types of food, then, having barely felt the “resistance” of the sinker, they try to get rid of potentially dangerous food, i.e. actually spit it out instantly. And, just the same, it is at this moment that the sting of the hook is “spotted” in the lower lip of the fish. That is, in fact, the carp “self-detects” - both under the weight of our sinker, and under the weight of the bait directly below the hook, and also due to the “spitting force”.

If the notch was bad, it could mean that the "hair" was too short and the carp was not able to "suck" the bait deep enough before spitting it out sharply (and powerfully). Continuous observations of the place / position of the hook in the lip of the carp will help you analyze the situation normally and choose the most optimal length of the “hair”. The ideal place/position of the hook in the carp's mouth is generally considered to be the central part of the lower lip (approximately half an inch deep). Depending on the nature of the reservoir, the features of the bottom topography, the specifics of the food supply, as well as some nuances of the feeding behavior of carp (on a particular / taken lake), the length of your “hair” should be selected. That is, taking into account all these important factors.

carp hooks

Also, be sure to note that each rig has its own hooks. Most modern carp hooks are special models, usually designed for strict/certain situations or for any specific carp rigs. The design of making hooks for carp fishing can differ in many characteristics, the main of which are the so-called “total forearm length” (the distance from the eye to the bottom point of the hook); the “width of the undergarment” (i.e. the lower “bend” of the hook) and the thickness of the material (from which the hook is made). Of course, thinner hooks are designed for catching "ordinary" fish in the simplest waters, and thick (and super / durable) - for fighting trophy fish, in more complex ponds and lakes (i.e. with snags, algae and other underwater obstacles).

What is the main task of a carp hook? In fact, it consists in the fact that at the very moment the fish is spitting out (our bait), it instantly turns around with the sting down and immediately digs into the lower lip. Judging by personal practice, they unfold perfectly and reliably hook in the lip of a carp - these are the hooks that have a short fore-end and more rounded shapes (the so-called “curved style” of manufacture). Personally, I would advise beginners to start their journey in carp fishing with just such hook models. The best option is the relatively new SSBP Armapoint series from the purely “carp” company FOX.

Lead materials

And finally, the last important element for creating a catchy carp rig is a leash, for the manufacture of which you can use leash materials produced in 3 main varieties: soft braided (without sheath), soft braided (sheathed / braided) and hard (nylon or fluorocarbon). Naturally, not taking into account the "fancy" combined manufacturing options (for more sophisticated carp anglers).

Sufficiently hard nylon is able to work just as well as soft braid, while, in fact, in the same carp rigs. Using soft braided materials (sheathed / braided), you can always “remove” the abrasion / resistant coating, and in the end you get a soft section that provides normal movement of the bait against the background of the remaining (harder) part of the entire leash. I assure you that in some situations - this must be done! Since carps can feel both the resistance of a hard leash and the “weight” of the sinker, they have not yet completely “sucked” the nozzle.

Some anglers pay too little attention to the length of the leader. And it's in vain! Since it is this "characteristic" that greatly affects the "spotting ability" of the entire equipment, as a whole.

Too long leashes lead to insufficient resistance of the “classic” sinker (weighing 3 ounces), thereby giving the fish the opportunity to get rid of the hook without any problems. As soon as they feel the prick of the hook, the carps begin to turn their heads strongly, and this leads to the fact that the place of the lip puncture increases significantly, because of which the hook falls out. In turn, a short leader is able to provide direct contact between the hook and the lead (with virtually instantaneous resistance of its 3-ounce weight). By itself, lengthening the leash will be a rational solution only in those cases when the carp take the baits very carefully, “checking” its natural mobility in advance. Thus, if your “weak” bites do not transform into confident “steam locomotives” for a very long time, then you should seriously think about the length of the leash. Be sure to change it and compare the new result with the previous one.

An in-depth study and a thorough understanding - these are the BASICS of creating leaders and carp rigs (in general), ultimately lead to the fact that the carp begins to BELIEVE in his tackle. And this is one of the main aspects of carp fishing! Personally, in 95% of cases I am quite satisfied with the use of only 3 carp rigs: with a single bottom boilie, with a single Pop-Up and, of course, a “snowman”. All these 3 snaps are knitted from identical materials and work successfully - in fact, according to the same principle.

Practical part (step by step instructions)

1) This photo shows everything you need to make 3 types of leashes.

2) Remove 5 inches of braid (i.e. approximately 13 cm) from the leader material for rigging with a 15-16 mm bottom boilie. For the “snowman” rig, we remove the braids a little more. At the far end of the segment of "bare" material - we tie an ordinary knot.

3) With the help of a special boilie needle (I personally use a needle from FOX), we carefully put our 15 mm boilie on the “hair”.

5) At a distance of 1 inch (approximately 2.5 cm) from the boilie, we tie a micro ring (“Rig Rings Micro”).

6) After that, through this ring we thread the hook (8th number). Personally, I think that the use of micro-rings gives the bait a lot more “freedom of action”, thereby significantly improving the “spotting ability” of the entire rig.

7) Directly through the eye of the hook - we thread the “free” end of the leash, so that later we can tie the “Knotless Knot” (i.e. without / knot).

8) First, we make 6 turns around the shank of the hook, and then again we stretch the end of the leash through its eye.

9) And, in the end, we securely tighten our knot.

10) Using scissors (or other tools), cut off a piece of heat/shrink tubing (1 inch or 2.5 cm long)

11) Then, we put this segment on a leash and pull it over the resulting knot. Thanks to a piece of thermo / shrink tube - the hook (in the carp's mouth) will unfold.

12) At the other end of the leash - we also knit a knot and tighten it securely, only this time using a special device (for example, from FOX).

13) A few inches from the hook (on a leash) we make 3-4 turns from the “core” of the leader.

14) We stick around these turns (from the “inner part” of the leader) with soft lead (or fishing tungsten putty).

15) This will normally press the leash to the bottom.

The presence of a feeder in the rig actually gave the name to the English bottom rod, since the word "feeder" is translated as "feeder"! Therefore, it is not surprising that the effectiveness of fishing depends on the functionality of this most important component of the feeder equipment. Yes, there are results! An improperly selected feeder can jeopardize the very ability to catch fish. So let's find out how to choose a feeder feeder?

Lyrical introduction

At the beginning of the development of the feeder, the author of these lines had the imprudence to trust one of the "experts" of the Kyiv bazaar "Bukhara", where you can still buy anything in terms of fishing. So, the seller sold a picker rod with all the equipment and a spring feeder, assuring that this is the best option for the Dnieper. The next day, the "spring" with bait flew into the water and immediately, carried by the Dnieper jet, collected the gear of the fishermen standing downstream ... It turned out that the 30-gram feeder was completely unsuitable for the current. Therefore, the first lesson that your obedient servant learned from all this is that the weight of the feeder must correspond to the conditions of fishing. On the river, 60 g may be enough, and sometimes 150 grams are blown away. In calm water, 20-40 g is usually enough. It is also important that you first need to choose a rod for specific conditions, and then buy a feeder for the feeder.

Choosing a feeder for ponds without a current

There are many forms and varieties of structures that affect the efficiency of bait supply, casting distance and ease of use in certain conditions. So, for calm water, the following types of feeders are best suited:

"Springs" or "Spirals"– affordable and effective solutions for fishing in ponds, bays, lakes with pickers and light rods. The design is based on a spiral "body" with a central rod-tube and a sinker attached at the back. The advantages of "springs" are in the simplicity of equipment, the aerodynamics of the shape, which allows you to cast far, in the fast return of feed and the sensitivity of the equipment. Since the feeder is sliding, bite information is instantly transmitted to the quiver tip.

"Kegs" made of metal mesh- classic options for effective fishing in ponds without a current. Moreover, depending on the conditions, they can be either open (without plugs) or semi-open (removable plug on one side). They are distinguished by excellent aerodynamic properties, very convenient in terms of filling with food, they hold loose bait well, delivering them to the fishing point. In addition, they can be used in classic feeder installations, fastened to an anti-twist tube, etc.

Round models made of plastic have all the functional features of metal mesh feeders. In addition to everything, they, as a rule, are equipped with small longitudinal planes, therefore, during the exhaustion, they quickly break away from the bottom and soar into the water floor, bypassing bottom obstacles in the form of vegetation, shells, stones and just various rubbish. They can be equipped with a removable plug for a longer washing out of the feed.

Method feeders- these are “nipples” and “spoons” improved, again by English fishermen-athletes, only the bait is held not by wire, but by longitudinal or transverse planes. Method feeders are divided into two types: flat (flat weight and transverse ribs) and triangular (longitudinal ribs). They are served with pressed bait to an already fed point and look like a big ball of food, which the fish begins to dig and suck until it hits a hook with an even more attractive bait.

All of the above feeders are ineffective in rivers, since the round shape will not allow them to resist the flow and stay in a baited place. Method models are carried even more by the current, washing away open food before they reach the bottom.

Theoretical digression

The weight of each feeder is indicated on its sinker, but how do you know how much it weighs with bait. The most obvious, simple and accurate way is to weigh it on an electronic canter. If there are no scales, you can use the formulas to determine the volume:

For rectangular - L x W x H;
For triangular - L x W x H / 2;
For round ones - 3.14 x D / 2 x D / 2.

If the result is multiplied by a factor of 1.2, we get the approximate weight of the bait. Adding it to the mass of the load, we determine whether the weight of the bait and the feeder fits into the test range of the feeder rod.

Feeder feeders for fishing on rivers

The flow requires from the feeder not only a heavy sinker, which it would not demolish, but also a certain design and shape. Unlike models with a round section, triangular, square and rectangular feeders perfectly keep the jet. Thanks to the fine mesh baskets, the food is gradually washed out, keeping the fish close to the rig for as long as possible.

In principle, the feeders of these forms also work in reservoirs where there is no current. But then it is necessary to select models with a large cell, so that the food dissolves more easily and attracts fish better.

For fishing in high jet conditions, lugs feeders are best suited. The sinkers of such models have large spikes at the bottom, with which they “cling” to the bottom and are held in one place.

Feeders for special purposes

In addition to the classic and method models, there are feeders designed for specific purposes. Depending on the weight, they can be used both in current and in calm water.

"Bullets" for ultra-long casts- made of metal mesh or plastic. The main difference is the location of the load not along the entire length along one of the sides, but at the end of the basket. This design allows you to make long and ultra-long casts even against the wind.

Feeding models- designed for feeding fishing points and are characterized by increased feed capacity, equipped with small loads or not loaded at all. Their task is to deliver as much bait as possible to a given sector in order to attract fish as soon as possible. After creating a bait table, you can cast a standard feeder.

Feeders for animal components- created for throwing worms, maggots, bloodworms. These are closed models with small holes so that the larvae or worms can gradually leave the feeder. One end is plugged, and the other is equipped with a lid for loading live bait. Of course, it is possible to deliver animal components to the fishing point along with bait in classic feeders, but in this case, the larvae and worms will very quickly find themselves in the water and will either be carried away by the current or eaten by a trifle. But special feeders are made in such a way that animal components leave the feeder for a long time.

Overview of feeders

The classic version of the "spring". The model is distinguished by the absence of a load and the presence of a central tube for mounting sliding equipment. It is perfect for fishing in shallow waters without a current, as well as as a bait feeder, since the model is able to instantly drop the bait. Simplicity of a design and high quality of production guarantees durability and efficiency of use of this model.

This model is perfect for calm waters and slow flowing rivers. The advantages lie in the presence of planes, which, with the first turns of the coil, raise the feeder into the middle and upper layers of the water. Therefore, the model is indispensable where there are a lot of shells, debris stones and other obstacles on the bottom, over which this model easily passes during the winding of tackle.

The universal model is perfect for both calm water (small weights) and flowing water (large weights). A feature of this model is a metal mesh with a large cell for effective washing out of bait and its rectangular section, which prevents rolling in the current. The plug keeps the feed on the jet. If necessary, it can be removed to increase the intensity of feeding.

An excellent option for catching carp on the feeder. The model has excellent flight qualities and is intended for long-distance casts. During winding, it quickly breaks away from the bottom and hovers above it due to the petal shape. Therefore, it is excellent for fishing in reservoirs with a barbed, rocky or overgrown bottom. Due to the high transverse ribs, the bait is well kept in the feeder.

Results in conclusion

By and large, if the weight of the feeder with bait falls within the test range of the rod, then it can already be safely cast without fear of breaking the blank. Another question is whether you can fish effectively. First you need to decide on the weight. For a flow, you will need a feeder of at least 60 g. If we are talking about a strong stream, then you will have to stock up on feeders of 90 g, 100 g, 120 g or more. In ponds, bays and lakes, a feeder weighing up to 40 g is enough. In calm water, the shape of the feeder is not decisive. But in the river it is better to catch on models with a rectangular or triangular section. Of course, if you are fishing both in current and in calm water, you need to have several pieces of feeders of different designs in order to always be ready for fishing. Long-range models will not be superfluous, and feeding options will certainly come in handy in order to quickly “set the table” and start catching fish. And remember, a feeder is a consumable item, so at least a few pieces should be in your fishing bag on every fishing trip.

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